August 9th (Nagasaki)

 

Yesterday (August 8) we were in the city of Nagasaki. It's a beautiful little place, with a charming streetcar and centuries of important history, especially in Japan-Dutch relations during the Edo Period. And yet, of course, its most famous role in history is now, and very likely will remain, as the target of humanity's second atomic bombing of other humans.

We visited the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum.  I was last here at New Year's 1994, and the current museum building opened in 1996, so this was effectively the first time for me. The museum is, if possible, more powerful, moving and terrifying that Hiroshima.  The exhibits pull zero punches.

The museum opens with some of the most disturbing images and artifacts anywhere on Earth. From there, it goes into more personal stories and mementos.  It also covers in surprising depth the physics and medical impact of the explosion.  It concludes with a history China-Japan conflicts starting in the late 19th century, a separate timeline for the Pacific War, followed by postwar nuclear developments and politics, with a moving call for global disarmament.

Many of the exhibits have at least short accompanying explanations in English, but many also do not; they are probably covered in the audio guide that I didn't borrow.  The war histories state dates for key events, such as the Manchurian Incident and the attack on Pearl Harbor, but without any description, so interpretation is left up to the viewer and their pre-existing knowledge of history.

We were there the afternoon before the 11:02 a.m. 80th anniversary.  There was a scattering of foreigners in somber suits, most with guides/interpreters.  I presume they were there as guests for today's ceremony.

I took a few photos (which is allowed through most of the museum), but most of them feel too raw, too personal.  The photo at the top of this posting is from the memorial, which is attached to the museum.  The glass tower in the middle back normally holds books listing the names of the many victims, but a small sign said that the books had been removed in preparation for use in today's ceremony.